Cheesy anchovy straws and chocolate meringue kisses: Yotam Ottolenghi?s recipes for party nibbles
Happy 2025 everyone, and may the New Year bring with it the positive changes we all so yearn for. Personally, I will be embracing change in a big way, because, after seven years, this is my final column for the Guardian?s Feast. From March, I will be writing a new, long-form quarterly column packed with recipes, personal experiences and general observations about the food world, so stay tuned. The Feast community is the most engaged and greedy I know, so thank you! And I hope you welcome the New Year with these party nibbles I have lined up for this weekend. Here?s to new beginnings!
Anchovy, pecorino and rosemary straws (pictured top)
For anyone with a drink in hand or in need of a savoury bite, nothing will hit the spot more than these. Double or triple the batch, if you like, then freeze the excess unbaked straws ? put them in the freezer on their tray, then, once frozen, store in layers separated by greaseproof paper in a suitable freezer container. They?ll keep for a month and can be baked straight from frozen, but give them a little more time in the oven to account for that.
Prep 30 min
Chill 1 hr
Cook 30 min
Makes 24
1 sheet all-butter puff pastry (320g)
55g pecorino, or parmesan
10g picked rosemary leaves, finely chopped
6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, to get 2 tsp
30g anchovy fillets in oil, drained, plus 1 tbsp oil from the jar
1? tsp aleppo chilli
Black pepper
Put the pastry on a large sheet of greaseproof paper and roll it out a little to make a 26cm x 40cm rectangle. Using the paper to help you, lift the pastry on to a large tray and chill until required.
Grate 20g of the cheese into the small bowl of a food processor, add the rosemary, garlic, lemon zest, anchovies, anchovy oil, aleppo chilli and a generous grind of pepper, then blitz until almost smooth. Spread out this mixture on to half of the pastry along one of its short sides, then fold over the pastry to make a 26cm x 20cm envelope. Roll it out again, this time to make a roughly 30cm x 22cm rectangle.
Brush the top with water, grate 20g of the remaining cheese on top, then fold in half to make a 15cm x 22cm rectangle. Roll out the pastry once again, this time into a 36cm x 22cm rectangle, brush with more water, then grate on the final 15g of cheese. Generously grind over some more pepper and, using your hands, press the cheese and pepper down into the pastry.
Cut the pastry into 24 1?cm-wide strips and arrange these on two lined baking trays so they?re 2cm apart. Holding one end of each strip, twist it into a tight spiral, then push both ends into the paper, so the straw sticks to it. Chill for 30 minutes, to firm up.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Bake the straws for 22-25 minutes, until the cheese has crisped up and the pastry is golden, then leave to cool on a wire rack before serving.
Chocolate and chestnut meringue kisses
View image in fullscreen Yotam Ottolenghi?s chocolate and chestnut meringue kisses.
A tray of these as it approaches midnight on 31 December would be a very good way to see out the year. They work both as finger food, for everyone to help themselves, or as a centrepiece dessert. The meringues can be made a day ahead, but don?t assemble the dish until you?re close to serving up, otherwise they will soften in the cream. If you like, add a teaspoon or two of your favourite tipple to the cream mix for an extra kick.
Prep 10 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 10 as a canape or 6-8 as dessert
140g soft light-brown sugar
25g blanched hazelnuts
75g egg whites (ie from 2 large eggs)
100g ready-cooked whole chestnuts
180ml double cream
150ml creme fraiche
20g 70%-cocoa dark chocolate, chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 mandarin, or easy-peeler, to get 1 tsp
Heat the oven to 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6?. Spread out the sugar on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, and put the hazelnuts on a second tray, this time unlined. Bake both for six minutes, until the sugar has caramelised slightly and the nuts are well toasted, then remove and turn down the oven to 150C (130C fan)/300F/gas 2. Put a tablespoon of the sugar in a medium bowl and set aside for later.
Put the egg whites in a large bowl (or in a stand mixer) and whisk to stiff peaks. Whisking all the time, slowly add the remaining hot sugar a tablespoon at a time, until it?s all incorporated and dissolved, and you have glossy stiff peaks.
Line two large oven trays with baking paper, and dab a little of the meringue mixture under each corner of both sheets of paper, so they stick to the tray. Using a tablespoon, scoop a generous golf ball-sized amount of meringue out of the bowl and, using a finger to help you, push it out on to the paper, lifting up the spoon as the meringue releases to create a slight peak. Repeat with the rest of the meringue mixture, then bake for 90 minutes, until lightly browned and firm to the touch. Turn off the oven, leave the door slightly ajar, and leave to cool completely.
Meanwhile, lightly crush the roast hazelnuts in a mortar, then tip into a bowl. Put the chestnuts in the mortar and crush to a smooth paste. Tip the chestnut paste into the bowl of reserved sugar and add 150ml of the cream. Gently whisk until combined, then add the creme fraiche and whisk for two minutes, until the cream is lightly whipped. Cover and chill until required.
Once the meringues are cool and you are ready to serve, make the chocolate drizzle. Put the chocolate and a tablespoon of double cream in a microwave-safe bowl and heat for 20 seconds until the chocolate has melted (alternatively, melt it in a bowl set over a pan of warm or gently simmering water, making sure the base of the bowl doesn?t touch the water). Stir to combine, then add the last tablespoon of cream: you should now have a loose and spoonable chocolate sauce.
To serve, spread a 2?cm-thick layer of the cream all over the base of a large serving dish. Arrange the meringues on top in a single layer ? a little overlapping is OK ? then drizzle the chocolate sauce on top. Sprinkle over the hazelnuts and zest, and serve immediately.
